Lapsang Souchong is a distinctive black tea from Fujian province in China. Traditionally smoked over wood, it brings together aromas of campfire, resin, pine and dark, warming tea. Discover its production, history, flavour and surprising uses in savoury cooking.
What is smoked tea?
For traditional smoked Lapsang Souchong, tea leaves are first withered in a warm room. They are then rolled, oxidised and dried, sometimes on bamboo racks above a wood fire. Smoke imparts the tea's recognisable woody notes and gives the brewed liquor a reddish-copper hue. The aroma is often compared with peaty Scotch whisky.
The name souchong is generally associated with larger, more mature leaves harvested below the tender shoot. The smoking technique gives these leaves a particularly expressive character.
How Lapsang Souchong is produced
- Harvesting: larger, mature tea leaves are picked, often in spring or summer.
- Withering: leaves lose some of their moisture.
- Rolling: the structure of the leaves is gently broken down.
- Oxidation: exposure to air develops colour and flavour.
- Smoking: where the traditional smoked style is made, the leaves absorb aromas from burning wood.
- Final drying: the tea is dried to stabilise it before packing.
The smoke intensity varies from a subtle woody suggestion to a bold, tarry, campfire-like aroma depending on the producer and processing method.
Origins and history of Lapsang Souchong
Known in Chinese as Zhengshan Xiaozhong, this historic black tea comes from the Wuyi Mountains of Fujian. A popular story places its origins in the Qing dynasty, when villagers hurriedly dried tea leaves over pine fires after soldiers interrupted production. Whether or not the legend is entirely accurate, smoked black tea has a long history and became particularly popular among European tea drinkers.
Is smoked Lapsang Souchong banned in France?
No general ban on Lapsang Souchong tea applies in France or the European Union. The smoking process can, however, produce polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which are subject to food-safety controls. Producers and importers must comply with the applicable requirements. This is a matter of product compliance, not a reason to claim that every smoked tea is either unsafe or risk-free.
What does Lapsang Souchong taste like?
- Aroma: smoke, pine resin, charred wood and sometimes hints of dried fruit or honey.
- Liquor: a bright copper to deep amber colour.
- Mouthfeel: rounded and sometimes lightly astringent, with a lingering smoky finish.
Try pairing this tea with mature cheese, grilled vegetables, smoked fish or savoury dishes. It also appeals to people who enjoy distinctive peaty or woody flavours.
Cooking with Lapsang Souchong
Make a strong infusion and use it in cooking water for rice or vegetables, as a marinade base, or to bring a subtle smoky note to tofu and sauces. It can also be enjoyed at brunch alongside toast and blue cheese.
Four recipes using smoked tea
1. Lapsang Souchong-marinated chicken or tofu
Ingredients: 2 tbsp Lapsang Souchong, 500 ml hot water, 4 chicken fillets (or tofu), 2 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp honey, 2 crushed garlic cloves and grated ginger.
Method: Steep the tea for 10 minutes and strain. Mix the infusion with the soy sauce, honey, garlic and ginger. Marinate the chicken or tofu for about 2 hours, refrigerated. Grill or pan-fry until thoroughly cooked.
2. Mushroom soup with Lapsang Souchong
Ingredients: 2 tbsp smoked tea, 1 litre hot water, 500 g sliced mushrooms, 1 chopped onion, 2 garlic cloves, 2 tbsp butter, 1 tbsp flour and 200 ml cream.
Method: Infuse the tea for 10 minutes. Soften the onion and garlic in butter, add the mushrooms, then stir in the flour. Add the strained tea and simmer for roughly 20 minutes. Finish with cream.
3. Salmon with a smoky tea marinade
Ingredients: 2 tbsp tea, 500 ml hot water, 4 salmon fillets, 2 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp lemon juice and 1 tbsp honey.
Method: Prepare a 10-minute tea infusion, strain, then mix with the other marinade ingredients. Marinate the salmon in the fridge for about an hour and bake at 180°C for approximately 15–20 minutes, until cooked.
4. Mushroom and Lapsang Souchong risotto
Ingredients: 2 tbsp tea, 1 litre hot water, 250 g Arborio rice, 200 g mushrooms, 1 onion, 2 garlic cloves, 100 ml white wine, 2 tbsp butter and 50 g grated Parmesan.
Method: Make a tea infusion and strain it. Sweat the onion and garlic, add mushrooms and rice, then pour in the wine. Gradually add the hot tea infusion, stirring until the rice is cooked. Stir in the butter and Parmesan.
Frequently asked questions
Is Lapsang Souchong a black tea?
Yes. It is a black tea whose character may be shaped by a traditional smoking stage.
Does it always taste strongly of smoke?
No. Smoke levels vary according to origin and processing; some teas are much subtler than others.
Does it contain caffeine?
Yes, like other black teas. Caffeine content varies with the leaves and brewing conditions.
Can you buy organic Lapsang Souchong?
Yes. Look for an appropriately certified organic product and information about its production and origin.